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If it is the beige in Firefox in your screenshot, you need to play with the GTK settings in Application Style (the name seems to have changed across versions).
I currently use Greybird, installed with Get New Themes.
In the OP's image the cyan area is roughly #C0FDFE - quite a light cyan - and the Firefox bars are #ECE0D2 which is not quite grey, definitely moving into beigeness.
The cyan you see is actually the top of the wallpaper -- Richmond, VA at night. As to the rest, thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction. With the friendly assists, the new, more pleasing result is as follows
I'll add that firefox draws its own scrollbars, which don't follow any GTK theme. They're far too wide and bland for my preference. There's add-ons to control them though.
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